If you were waiting for a “getting settled” update, I’m sorry. I am currently not so happy with my surroundings (I’m easily affected by weather, it turns out):
It’s cold(ish), grey and rainy outside. Also, since we changed to winter time the day has become considerably shorter, it being dark at 4.30 already. And it gets worse every day. I’m even looking forward to Christmas because that means it will get lighter and lighter every day after that. But enough of the whining. I manage to keep myself happy with (you guessed it!) sewing. So let’s focus on the happy thoughts, i.e. the new clothes I made.
First up, the inevitable By Hand London Anna dress. I’ve seen so many gorgeous versions out there. Most notably nishiink’s Tropicanna, Deer Anna, and the Lovestory, as well as, all of Sewbusylizzy’s versions. Seriously, go google image the Anna dress.
I had read that most people had troubles with the back neck gaping, plus I wasn’t sure about sizing, so I made the following version as a wearable muslin out of some stash fabric:
There is some gaping, but it doesn’t bother me too much. I cut a size 8/12 on top, tapering to a size 10/14 on the waist, using a size 10/14 for the bottom. I could have stuck to a straight size 8/12 for the whole dress, as I took it in quite a bit at the back in the waist and skirt afterwards. I should have done a swayback adjustment, as there’s a little pooling in that area, and the hem is unintentionally hi-lo. However, all in all I like it, but I’m not as enthusiastic about it as other people. Maybe it’s the dark and boring fabric, maybe it’s that I’ve seen too many versions by now, who knows.
As you can see, I’m wearing the Anna layered with a long-sleeved shirt. As I don’t have enough of those, I went ahead and finally made some. I had recently seen some nice renditions of the top 123 from Burda Style issue 09/2012, so chose that pattern. It was a rather fast make, taking me about 3 hours including tracing.
I made my usual Burda size 36 (which is 1 size smaller than the measurement table suggests). However, I should have gone with the size 38, as it is a bit snug. But I’ll mostly wear it layered under dresses, so that’s not such a big issue. I really like the neat look of the front neckline, though:
This is achieved by sewing in a facing. Unfortunately I messed up the back facing a little bit, so the keyhole opening doesn’t lay flat:
Again, not an issue under dresses. But then I wondered if a simple neck binding would also work (it does) and made another version just now. This took me even less time, having done the tracing already.
I widened this one at the side seams by about 1cm on each side, so it fits less snugly. The neckhole is big enough for my head to go through, and while it’s not as neat with the binding it’s still pretty nice:
The light grey one is a cotton elasthan blend, the darker one is an extremely soft and cozy cotton double-knit (which unfortunately doesn’t have too much recovery). The shoulder inserts for both are from some mystery fabric I got from the remnants bin. I rather like the textural detail it adds.
Both the Anna, and the tops were fairly quick makes. Something which I cannot really say about this next make. Ever since it was published in Burda Style issue 08/2011 I wanted to make this dress:
But I knew I wanted to line it, and waited for inspiration on how to go about that. Moreover, I wasn’t able to find the adequate length and colour invisible zipper. Then I decided one day late in September that instead of thinking about it, I would have to just try and wing it. So I worked on it pretty much through all of October. While cutting and sewing the shell and lining separately went really well, attaching the two to each other gave me some headache, but It turned out ok in the end. I even managed to find a zipper in the exact same colour, but it was neither the right length, nor invisible. So I tried my first centered zipper ever:
It’s ok enough, but I prefer the invisible one.
As I said, I lined it and decided to play with that a bit. I chose a sunny yellow striped acetate and used red bias tape on the facing edges:
I also used the lining fabric for pockets, which I added using the pocket pattern piece from my Saltspring.
Nobody will ever see it, but I know that there’s a bit of sun with me when I wear it. Which I did for the first time today. It’s nice and warm, as the turquoise fabric is cotton flannel. It’s quite cofortable as well, even with the high neck.
Again I made a size 36, with a 3cm seam allowance at the center back seam, which I ended up needing, so again I should have gone up a size. Let’s hope I’ll remember next time I make a Burda pattern!
Oh, can you believe that I forgot to include a garment in my September roundup? And it’s even one I love!
But that’s it for now. I’ll try and come up with a cooking post soon, as we’ve been having guests over every week recently, and I have been cooking up a storm!