My #specialproject

My #specialproject

Warning: This is an excessively long sewing related post. It’s also picture heavy, so I will put in a break right here. Continue reading

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Laterblog Vol. 1

…I finished this coat already some time ago… Yeah, well… I could repeat again about why I bother to blog it so much later, but you know, I’ve said it before. So from now on, out-of season pictures will not be commented on further.

For those of you who follow me on Instagram (I’m Lazylinchen there as well), or have read my last post, this coat must look very familiar.

Fashion Shoot! – Well, probably more like catalogue…

It has taken up my sewing time and instagramming since before Christmas. But that is not even half of the time this garment has lingered on my to do list. Since my long cropped sweater post we all know my projects may take rather long to get done.

This project started its “life” in 2009, when it was published in the August issue of Burda Style. Yes, more than 5 years ago. Both the style lines, as well as the huge hounds-tooth fabric really appealed to me.

First Coat Ever!

Nothing came of it, though as I quickly got distracted by other projects. But then Project Runway season 8 happened. I was/am a huge fan of Mondo‘s work, which felt so fresh and new to me (still does). At that point I remembered the coat and the oversized hounds-tooth print, which I felt could have come straight from his collection. Shortly after, I happened upon this fabric and subsequently traced the pattern. I might even have bought elbow length suede gloves to wear with the 3/4 sleeves…

Then I stalled for the next 4 years. I would get the pattern out every Autumn, read the instructions, get intimidated and postpone to the next year. After all, the fabric was just too precious to mess up.

Glimpse At Lining – Can you believe that we forgot to take pictures of the back? -.-

But last Autumn when I was organising my stash after the move to our new place, I was suddenly over the fabric. So I pulled the pattern out and started cutting. No muslin, because I thought this design is very forgiving in terms of fit.

As for the construction, I took it very slowly and followed the instructions closely. They were usual Burda, but I used the German version, which I suspect makes more sense (plus, I learned to sew in school using Burda). For the collar and lapel, both upper and lower pattern pieces were the same, then (as per instructions) the lower pieces were just eyeballed and pinned to the correct (smaller) size. Apart from that, it was pretty straight forward. For the lining I tried to reduce bulk by eliminating as many seams as possible, as I used polar fleece instead of lining fabric.

I fused the facings and collar only, and in hindsight, I should have block-fused the whole coat, as the fabric is quite shifty (it’s loosely woven cotton) and creases easily.

I took quite a long time to decide on the closure. I should have done bound buttonholes, but I forgot and then it was too late. Regular machine buttonholes didn’t work, the four layers of fabric (I used 2.5 cm seam allowances) plus interfacing were just too much for my machine. In the end I cheated and used big snaps, sewing the buttons on as decoration.

Apart from being the first ever coat I made, there are quite a few firsts for me on this project: first time sewing a flap pocket, first lapel collar, first time sewing a 90º angle.

Collar Close-up

I wore the coat only a few times, as by the time it was finished, it got too warm for it. I had very mixed reviews from people. It seems that either they love it for the boldness, or they don’t get it as it is quite big. I for my part am insanely proud of my coat and love wearing it. Plus, it can even accommodate the little one!

The coat is done! And thanks to the swingyness of it I can fit the kid underneath as well. 😁 #coatmaking

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TL;DR I made a coat and am gloriously proud of it!

Now I will have to wait for a long time to put it on again, as we are currently away in Madrid for 6 weeks on another work trip, then on to visit the in-laws in Sicily. If you have any fabric and/or notions shopping tips, for any of the two locations, I’d be very happy to hear them!

A Long Cropped Sweater

Oh hello there! Long time no see! And to top it off, a make that has been finished since the beginning of November (as you can easily tell from the location of these photos). Usually I wouldn’t bother to write a post about something that “old” and “long ago”, but this one is special. How so? Well, may I introduce you to the sweater that has helped me deal with labour?

Pleased To Meet You! – Being silly in the Jardin des Plantes

But how can a sweater help someone through labour? Well, I had cast it on two days before giving birth and was knitting quite ferouciously up until leaving for the hospital. I was still so focused on it that whenever I needed to take my mind off the pain during labour (that is right before epidural and top ups kicked in) I was picturing this sweater and coming up with outfits. That’s how it got it’s ravelry name (Labour Celtic Hill).

Have Some Side View – To break up the text 🙂

It’s “Celtic Hill” a design from knitwear designer (and IRL friend) Kessa Tay Anlin. When she published the pattern I knew immediately that I wanted to make it (so bought it within two minutes of seeing it). What can I say, I love cables (both the look and knitting them).

However, I was 3 months pregnant at that time and knew that I wouldn’t be able to wear anything this body conscious in quite some time. So I postponed. When the bean took his time and I got more and more anxious, I needed something to calm my nerves. Knitting cables was exactly what I needed!

Back View – Just because

After coming back home I wasn’t really able to work on it for a few weeks. By the time we went to Paris, though, I started having little pockets of time to myself. Add to this the lack of a sewing machine and it took me almost no time to finish! It is not a difficult knit if you know how to do cabling, and the one fiddly part (grafting the cables) is explained very well in the pattern.

However, from purchasing the pattern, to starting the project, to actually finishing it, it took me a very long time, hence the title of this post.

Cable Detail – try to spot the graft (I can’t)

The yarn (Drops Merino Extrafine) was acquired at the epic closing sale of my favourite LYS. It can therefore be considered as using up stash yarn, even if it was in there for less than half a year. 🙂

Also, because of the sale, I only got the last 7 skeins of this dyelot. I knew it was not going to be enough for the full length, but was hoping I could get it to at least waist length. As you can see, I suceeded in that, though I used up every last bit of what I had. I love the look of cropped sweaters on me, so I am really, really happy with the outcome!

The above outfit is how I wore it a lot since completion. For the other outfit ideas, I have to get cracking with the sewing machine, as all the high waist pants I own don’t fit me right now. My “to sew list” is very long, though, so who knows if they ever get done! (Keep reading to find out! :P)

What is the longest you worked on an item? (UFOs don’t count) How do you take your mind off unpleasant situations?

An Unusual Amount of Plucking Up Courage

An Unusual Amount of Plucking Up Courage

We (yes, that’s the royal we 😉 ) interrupt the usual program for a bit of sewing fangirling. This is going to be long-winded, so be warned!

The ones who know me IRL will probably know that I spent the last 5 weeks in Paris (more on that in a future post). A Finnish friend had made me aware that there was going to be a DIY expo (the Salon Créations & Savoir-Faire) during this time When looking at the vendors, I saw that Deer and Doe‘s Eléonore was going to be there. I love her patterns for many reasons, so of course I had to go! So on the first day of the expo I strapped the bean in his carrier and off we went! When I got to the booth I plucked up all my courage and asked for a picture:

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The lighting was horrible, hence the grainy picture. Eléonore on the other hand was lovely, despite being very busy! Of course I bought some patterns (as well as some fabrics from Les Trouvailles d’Amandine, with whom she shared the booth). I hope I will present a finished garment combining the two sometime soonish.

Anyway, now following Eléonore on Instagram, I found out two days later (from a comment on one of her pictures) that there was going to be a sewing meetup the week after. Of course I wanted in on the fun!

Finding information about it was not very straight forward, but nothing an information specialist (a.k.a librarian, a.k.a. me!) couldn’t find out with a little bit of digging. Once again I plucked up all of my courage and asked Lladybird (who the meeting was organised for) if I could join. She quickly pointed me in the direction of CarmencitaB, who kindly let me join.

So once again I strapped the bean to my front and got going. We were very warmly greeted by our host (who, I found out, had just won the French Sewing Bee!) and got a personalised bag of bags and goodies. It turns out I wasn’t crashing a small and private meetup (phew!), as we were 25 sewists from 9 countries:

Spoolettes in Paris. ❤️

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I didn’t take a single picture during the whole day, hence I took the above picture from Carmen’s (our hostess’) Instagram. But if you’re interested, Julie (of jetsetsewing), Charlotte (of englishgirlathome) and Freya (of handmadebyfreya) already wrote up posts about the meetup with lots more pictures. It would be too long to mention all of the people who attended, so I won’t. 😀

Of course, as seems to be usual at such meetups, we had a lot of fun fabric and notions shopping and socialising. We started off in the Sentier, followed by tea in the Maison Sajou, and ending at the famous Coupons de Saint Pierre. I did not get so many fabrics, as I made the “mistake” of buying 3 meters of wool coating in one of the first shops I entered. It was so heavy that even the thought of buying more was just too much! However, this gave me the opportunity to socialise with the other sewists without much distraction.

All the while the bean was behaving really well, either sleeping or watching his surroundings contentedly. Only when we stopped at the Maison Sajou, where we had been invited for tea, did he start to get restless. The reason turned out to be a full diaper, which the owners kindly let me change on the counter. After that he fell asleep pretty quickly again, so I could shop at the coupons sale quietly. I did get some more fabrics there, the offers were just too good to pass up! So in the end PHD had to come and help me carry everything home. 🙂 The others went for dinner, but by that time the bean was more than a little tired and rather cranky, so we headed directly home.

The next day those of us who were still in Paris and didn’t have to work (some had just come for a day…!) were invited to Anna Ka Bazaar, which is extremely cute!

Anna Ka Bazaar – photo is from their website

Again I didn’t buy so much, but this time the thought of having to bring all that fabric to Finland kept me in check. Also once again, at the beginning I kinda forgot to take pictures, so I’m once again very thankful for Instagram:

Aujourd'hui nous avons eu la visite de couturières anglophones à la boutique #AnnaKaBazaar ! ❤

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This time from Anna Ka Bazaar. Reminded by the taking of this picture I once again plucked up my courage and asked the other ladies for pictures, having regretted not taking any with some of the other sewists the day before. However, these are just for my private viewing pleasure. 😛

So, my first (and probably only) organized sewing meetup was very enjoyable. I have, as is wont to happen at such occasions, met a lot of new people and have found a lot of new to me blogs. Now my blogroll and Instagram just got a lot busier!

Nursing Nettie Hack

As I said in the Jenna cardi post (way back in October) I desperately needed tops suitable for nursing. But I really prefer bodysuits in Winter. (Long torso + normal length cami = exposed mid-section as soon as I sit down = Arrrrgh!) Enter Nettie and So Zoe’s Coco pattern hack!

As so many others did, I immediately bought the Nettie as soon as I had heard of it. I therefore got the version with the wrong sizing. Not a problem in the least for me, as I was heavily pregnant at the time and had bought the pattern for later use anyway. When that later arrived (ca. 1 month after giving birth) I totally failed on several fronts.

Firstly, I didn’t measure myself and enthusiastically/naively/vainly just went with my pre-pregnancy measurements. After all, I was feeling and looking great! Granted, I had (and still have) a more hourglassy figure than before (which I love, btw), and I was still 6kg over my pre-pregnancy weight, but somehow my sleep-deprived brain on post-pregnancy hormones didn’t apply this fact to a possible increase in sizes. -.-

Secondly, I also totally didn’t apply the corrections in sizing that Heather provided. DERP!

Thirdly, I didn’t follow Zoe’s suggestion on the placement of the opening and cut the outer overlap for below the breasts (like a shelf bra), with the inner overlap over the breasts. I thought the seam would cut into the soft breast tissue and create an unflattering look. Well, I was partially right on that, but the overlap shouldn’t be too big, as otherwise it’s very difficult to access the bewbs. So, double DERP!

Luckily I tried the whole thing on before attaching the bindings and sewing the crotch. Unsurprisingly, it was too tight. But only after I almost couldn’t fit it over Berta did I start to swear (internally). It was now totally clear that this thing was never going to be wearable. So I re-printed and re-assembled the PDF (as for once I hadn’t traced -.-), took my current measurements, took a veeeerrrry careful look at the new sizing suggestions and as a result cut the pattern two sizes bigger. I also followed Zoe’s suggestions to a T this time.

Thankfully, this resulted in an almost perfectly fitting nursing bodysuit:

Nursing Nettie Bodysuit – Front view

Almost perfectly only because the shoulders are too narrow (a known issue of this pattern by now). Zoe’s hack works very well:

Nursing Nettie Bodysuit – Front view in “action”

I love the bum coverage of this pattern, no VPL, no sneaking into butt-crack during the day.

Nursing Nettie Bodysuit – Back view

The narrow shoulders are clearly visible in the above shot. I have no reason to put the next picture, apart from “look at all that hair!” of the bean, and I somehow feel I always should put a side view of my garments:

Nursing Nettie Bodysuit – Side view

Luckily the Nettie is a very fast make, even with the nursing hack. This way I was able to make two versions within one week (while the MIL was still here). I have been wearing them constantly and I desperately need another one. But unfortunately I wasn’t able to sew at all since the Italian Nonna left (that was October 14). That is, until last week, when the Swiss Grossmuetti (Grandma) visited. First, no sewing machine in Paris, and then massive exhaustion due to a suddenly much worse sleeping/feeding pattern of the bean. But did I sew what I needed when I had the occasion? Of course not, that would be too logical now, wouldn’t it? I quickly made a Hollyburn, but that’s for another post. (Somehow this sentence reminds me of a recurring one in “The Neverending Story” by Michael Ende… 😉 )

For the next version I plan to hack the pattern even further, making it with raglan sleeves and ballerina neckline. The bean has been slowly going back to longer stretches without feeding, which means I get more sleep during the night, which means I don’t nap as much during daytime. I am therefore quite optimistic about getting to sew more. Now I just need to kick my social media habit amd it will be smooth sailing…

A Dedicated Sewing Space!

In my last post I kinda sorta said this post was going to be a house tour. But first I will stick to the most important room of them all. Now, if you read the title this will come as no surprise: it’s the sewing room! It’s the first time I have a room solely for sewing. (Which is not entirely true, as will be evident later.) But anyhow, since I’m the only one using it, it’s the room where I can be as kitschy as possible I want, as evidenced by the following picture:

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Yep, even the computer is pink

Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to keep it this organised once I unpacked all the boxes and started sewing… Normally it looks more like this:

My Sewing Space – As it looks in use

My Sewing Space – I’m messy, what can I say…

Quite different, isn’t it? First of all, I had to give up the idea of being able to keep the sewing machines in the same spot and ready to sew at all times. I somehow only realised after moving that there is not enough space in the room for a cutting table. But luckily the cutting mats I own (they are connectable cutting mats from Olfa) fit exactly on the built-in tabletop. Even more luckily, the tabletop is at a perfect height for cutting. So I use the table to cut and sew (often at the same time).

But what kind of room has built-in cabinets at perfect height for working standing up? Well, it is a housekeeping room, that’s also why there is a sink in it. Which is, in turn, the reason why it is not solely for sewing anymore:

My Sewing Space – Plus changing table

We also use it for changing the bean’s diapers. Here in Finland it’s common to just wash the baby’s behind under the faucet instead of using wipes. Also, this particular faucet is ideal for such a purpose.

Anyhow, back to the topic at hand. In the cabinets above the sink I keep sewing notions (green baskets), some of my yarn stash (kitschy self-made box) and Burda magazines. I hope one day to be able to have this level of organisation in the rest of the apartment…

Never going to happen! I mean, not even the other cabinet is as well kept:

My Fabric Stash – Overflowing, as usual

At least the fabric is divided by types. Plus, I managed to take advantage of the move and measured, labelled, photographed and made a database (using Memento) of all my fabrics and patterns. But I think I might write a separate post about this project (what worked, what didn’t).

The space was obviously already mostly furnished, I only bought an office chair with wheels and (finally!) a full length mirror:

Hello There Stash Overflow!

Perfect for helping with fitting (I hope). Even though I had hoped the same of Berta (my custom dressform), who is modelling a botched Nettie bodysuit and a Rae skirt (both to be blogged later). Well, that didn’t work. But a girl can hope, right?

Anyway, that’s more or less my sewing space. Not that I get to use it so much lately. I’d say we mostly use it for the other activity mentioned in this post. 😉

Next post: the rest of our home. Until then, have a good one!

I Won!

I won my first giveaway prize! It came in an extremely opportune moment, as I desperately needed this particular garment. It has to do with breastfeeding and feeling cold while doing it. No, it’s not a nursing top, though I could use some of those as well…

No, the garment I needed was a replacement of a well-beloved 12-year-old me-made, a ratty old hooded cardigan. Made about twelve years ago without much knowledge about anything, really (which shows in almost every aspect of it’s construction…). Nevertheless, it served me fine through all these years, but I think it’s time for it to retire. After all my lounge pants are quite stylish now, even if I say so myself. How lucky for me that I won a copy of the equally stylish  Jenna cardigan in a giveaway on The Monthly Stitch! It’s new indie company Muse Pattern’s first pattern.

I made the the long version with long sleeves and the shoulder yoke detail. I like how this takes this simple pattern up a notch.

IMG_6732stylish

While I did not make this in an afternoon, as others have done (there’s serious cuddling to do around here, you know), it was quite a fast make. (That is after taping all those pages together. Ugh, I loathe that step in PDF patterns…)

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I went with my current bust measurement, which is one size bigger than before. It shows a bit in the shoulders, but the rest of the cardi fits really well, I think.

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The sleeves are quite long, as opposed to the bodice length that is just a tad short for me. But I repeat again (ad nauseam, probably) I have a long torso, so it might be just me.

IMG_6745

Obviously I changed a few things. Most notably, I put in an invisible zip instead of the button placket. The reason being that buttonholes are my nemesis, whereas invisible zips are my favourite closure (ever since I bought an invisible zipper foot, that is). Also, miraculously I had this separating invisible zip in my stash, and no button stash to speak of.  The other change was that I added side seam pockets. Unfortunately they turned out too small and I might just close the side seams, but for now I’ll leave it as is.

The fabric I used is a stable cotton/elasthane mix from Eurokangas. I have no idea why I bought it, since I avoid wearing animal print at all cost, as it can look quite tacky on blondes, I feel. This is ok, though, and I’m happy I had it in my stash (it was the only suitable fabricI had for this pattern).

I am already planning a second version, as this one is in very heavy rotation (it’s the only cardi I have atm). I just need to find the time to do it, as I am also knitting the gorgeous Celtic Hill. Seeing as naps take about 1 hour max, and that knitting takes a lot less start-up-time, I think it will be some time before I really get to it, though.

That’s it for now. Maybe I’ll do a getting settled post next, as the apartment slowly emerges from chaos. No promises, though! Life is a tiny bit unpredictable at the moment (even if the bean already has some kind of routine and lets us sleep more than I expected). Hopefully ’till soon!